"You wouldn't go into Graff or Winston or Van Cleef and penetrate wood," said Rahul R. Kadakia, Christie's pate of jewelry in New York. "Wood jewelry branches more into fashion."
"Fabergé had his own wood workshop staffed by Finnish craftsmen, who went hand in hand with the goldsmiths," said Kieran M. McCarthy, director at Wartski, an art and archaic dealer in London specializing in fine jewelry, gold boxes, silver and works of art by Fabergé. "For Russians, foreign tropical wood was as magnetic as nephrite jade."
"I wanted to make a killer piece," Ms. Brandt said of a drastic Macassar ebony cuff that she established for a voyaging Swarovski Elements exhibition, introduced by the Baselworld fair in 2008. The cuff, which required half a annual to engrave and scour, is set with an icicle-like sample of jagged white crystal spattered with green epidote.
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Some designers are drawn to wood no for how it looks or how many it prices merely for the way it feels. Gustav Reyes, owner of Simply Wood Rings in Chicago, handcrafts salvaged lumber in charts that "send out the heartiness and sincerity of the wood." ----------- www.fashionjewelrycentre.com
The egg was never conveyed — by Easter of 1917, the czar and his home were caged in the Alexander Palace: and the revolution put an end to Fabergé's affair.
"Wood has a rich color namely surely fuels and darkens when it's worn," said Katey Brunini, a designer based in Solana Beach,
links of london as men Silver, California, whose Twig collection of cuff bracelets and pendants incorporates cocobolo wood from Costa Rica. "Its earthy palette and grain patterns can be brilliant."
"We take three entities from the earth — metal, stones and wood — and they're all normal things, which is why they have harmony attach," said Axel H. M. Scheffel, headmaster of Scheffel-Schmuck in Munich, which began production a line of wood jewelry, using computer-controlled milling machines, three years antecedent.
The designs of Umane Paris, which acquired the prestigious Joaillerie de France name in 2007, revel in the contrast between wood's dimpled,
rubber-soled sheet shoes, uneven texture and the flat slick surface of metal and stones. A British designer, Anthony Roussel, on the additional hand, is intrigued by a different sort of contrast: He uses 3D software, rapid prototyping and laser-cutting to sculpt wooden rings and bangles with a algebraic precision that contrasts with their organic pray.
"Wood namely a access of being new and trendy without having apt mention, ‘Here, purchase this $5,000 metal cuff,"' said Helena G. Krodel, mentor of media and special events as the Jewelry Information Center in New York.
Ms. Brandt's care is currently focused on a new line of knuckle-dusting bridal rings fashioned from milky-colored tagua nut and chocolaty African olivewood, and topped by Herkimer diamonds, a type of quartz crystal. Unconventional, to say the least, the rings shriek to mind solitaires from a parallel macrocosm.
Christine J. Brandt, a wood carver and jeweler based in Brooklyn, New York, poses similar questions with her phantasmagoric wood jewels, which, while handmade, are everything but homespun. In her hands, wood is fewer a hippie-chic emphasize than a dull instrument. ----------- www.fashionjewelrycentre.com
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In that spirit, the Italian jeweler Roberto Coin included reclaimed black ebony in three collections disclosed at the Baselworld fine watch and jewelry fair in March. His Capri Plus bangle in ebony and 18-karat yellow gold with cognac diamonds carried a recommended retail cost of $6,800, compared with $13,500 for an all-gold version.
From then on, wood largely disappeared from fine jewelry — separately from a brief moment in the 1970s, when Cartier turned to ebony for its Touch Wood pendant collection — supplanted at a preoccupation with precious metals and gems. ----------- www.fashionjewelrycentre.com
"With the use of wood, I am answering the traditional notions of preciousness," Mr. Roussel says in a expression posted on his Web site. "In using current technologies as a tool,
cartier necklet tiger chart, I am questioning existing perceptions of craft."
The Scheffel collection couples more than 20 alter types of hardwoods, including Australian sheoak, amaranth and walnut, with a rainbow of semiprecious gems such as lemon quartz, green amethyst and moonstone.
Peter Carl Fabergé's ultimate grand commission for Czar Nicholas II was an Easter eggs made of Karelian birch, proposed for the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna.
Now, although, the pendulum is starting to wag back.
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Another Italian jeweler, Vhernier, based in the orthodox gold-working megalopolis of Valenza, is likewise using ebony, combined with rose gold in a collection of crooked pieces evoking the uncomplicated, yet sophisticated, fashions of modern and contemporary art.