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programming and human factors
by Jeff Atwood Creating a Personal computer, Part I
Over the following number of days, I'll be creating Scott Hanselman's personal computer. My target right now is more modest: create a minimum method that boots.

I'd prefer to dispel the myth that creating computers is risky, or in any way challenging or complicated. If you're able to place with each other a LEGO kit, you'll be able to put collectively a Computer from parts. It's dead straightforward,Office Standard 2010 32 Bit, like snapping together numerous LEGO bricks. Effectively, mainly. Have you ever seen how complex a number of people LEGO kits are?

Granted, creating computers just isn't for everyone. You can find lots of other things you might desire to do with your time, like, say, spending time together with your kids, or obtaining a cure for cancer. That's why men and women get pre-assembled computer systems from Dell. But when you may need fine-grained control about exactly what's inside your Personal computer, should you want a deeper knowing of how the hardware fits jointly and operates, then constructing a Pc is a exciting undertaking to take on. You can easily match or beat Dell's costs usually, although constructing a superior rig -- and you'll discover one thing along the best way, also.

Here's the total set of elements we ordered, for each the part listing. The CPU and memory boxes are not demonstrated, sadly, due to the fact I had by now opened individuals from the time I took this picture. Whoops!


All you need can be a handful of basic resources to develop this Personal computer. I generally use needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, as well as a small phillips screwdriver.


Before we begin, let me reveal a couple of essential things I've realized while creating PCs:


Laptop or computer parts are surprisingly durable. They aren't fragile. You don't have to baby them. So often I see individuals handle personal computer elements as if they're sacred, priceless relics. While I don't think you should play "catch" along with your new Core 2 Quad processor, it's also not going to explode into flames should you look at it the wrong way. You don't have to tiptoe around the construct. Just be responsible and use common sense. I've done some appalling things to computer hardware in my day, truly boneheaded stuff,Microsoft Office 2010 Key, and I think I've broken all of two or three items in the last 10 years.

The risk of static discharge is overblown. I never wear anti-static wristbands, and I've yet to electrocute any components with static electricity. Never. Not once. However, I always touch a metal surface ahead of handing personal computer components-- and that is a good habit for you to cultivate as properly.

Be patient, and don't force it. These rare times I've damaged components, it is because I rushed myself and forced something that I thought should fit-- despite all the warning signs. I've realized through hard experience that "maybe I need to use lots of additional force" is never the right answer when it comes to developing PCs. Take a deep breath. Count to ten. Refer to the manual, and double-check your work.




I always construct up the motherboard first. Place the motherboard on top of the anti-static bag it came in so it is easier to work on. Slot in the CPU and snap in the memory sticks. We're using four sticks here, so every slot is populated. However, if you're only using two sticks of memory, be sure they are in the correct paired slots for dual-channel operation. If you need advice, the motherboard manual can be a good reference for standard installation steps.


Continue developing up the motherboard by installing the CPU cooler. I strongly recommend buying an aftermarket CPU cooler based on a heatpipe tower design,Cheap Office Standard 2007, as they wildly outperform the stock Intel coolers. This particular model we chose for Scott's build is the Scythe Mine, but I'm also a fan of the Scythe Infinity and Scythe Ninja Plus. (It is possible to see the Ninja Plus on my work rig.)

It's important to install the CPU cooler correctly, otherwise you risk frying your CPU. Refer closely to the heatsink instructions. Don't forget to place a bit of the heatsink paste (included with the cooler) on the surface of the CPU before installing. These larger heatsinks can be quite heavy, so be sure you've followed the installation instructions to the letter and secured it firmly to the motherboard. Check the orientation of the heatsink so the fan blows "out" if possible, e.g., towards the back of the motherboard, where the case exhaust fans usually are.


Now let's develop up the case to accept the motherboard. We chose the Antec P182 case for Scott's construct. This case is unique; it can be a collaborative venture between the well-known case vendor Antec and Silent Pc Review, one of my favorite Computer enthusiast websites.

This is the second version of the case, which reflects a number of design tweaks about the original P180. It is a little expensive, but the P182 oozes quality and attention to detail. It can be probably the single best designed case I've ever worked on. But don't get my word for it; see reviews at AnandTech and SilentPCReview.


Some circumstances are sold with power supplies, but the higher end situations, such as the P182, typically are not. For Scott's build, we chose the Corsair HX series power supply, which can be a rebranded and tweaked Seasonic. It really is considered one of the best quiet and efficient power supplies on the market, which is why it tops the record of recommended PSUs at SilentPCReview.

I opened the opposite side of the case to gain access to the PSU cage from both sides, installed the PSU in the cage, and threaded the power cables up through the opening in the middle.


If you have cats, like we do, you have curious cat helpers. Unfortunately, cat helpers are not all that... helpful.


Now install the backplate included with the motherboard. Every backplate is different because every motherboard is different. It can be held in by pressure; just snap it in firmly around the edges.


It's finally time to place the motherboard in the case. Clear room in the case compartment by moving any errant cables out of the best way and stowing them. Make sure the screw holes on the motherboard line up with the pre-installed screw mount standoffs in the case. In our P182, everything matched up perfectly out of the box.

Angle the motherboard down slowly and line up the ports to the backplate, then gently permit the motherboard down to rest against the standoffs. Loosely line up the motherboard screw holes to the motherboard standoffs.


Find the packet of screws included with the case, and use the appropriate screws to secure the motherboard to the case standoffs.


Now let's connect the power supply to the motherboard. You will find two power connectors on modern motherboards, so be sure you've connected them both. Don't worry, the connectors are keyed; you can't install them incorrectly and blow up your Pc. As it is possible to see here, I threaded the power connectors along the back side of the motherboard platform. That is one of the many nifty little design features of the P182 case.


Before we can boot up, we will need to connect the power and reset switches so they work. This portion is often a little fiddly. Find the cable with the labelled power, reset, and LED connectors from the case, then refer to the motherboard manual to see where the appropriate motherboard front panel connector pins are.


Connect each front panel wire to the specific motherboard front panel pins individually. Make sure you connect them to the right location, but orientation of these connectors doesn't matter. This is where the needlenose pliers come in handy unless you have nimble (and tiny) fingers. Why this just isn't a universally standard keyed block connector by now is beyond me.


We need some kind of video output to see if our laptop or computer can boot, so let's install a video card. Scott's not a ################ gamer, so I went for a thing midrange, a set of two NVIDIA 8600GTS cards. They're an excellent blend of performance and the latest DX10 and high-definition features, although using relatively little power.

Don't forget to connect the 6-pin video card power connector if your video card requires it! This is a common mistake that I've made a lot more than once. Our power supply has modular connectors, so I snapped in one of the two 6-pin power connectors and threaded it up to the video card.


We're ready for the moment of truth: does it boot? I attached a power cord to the power supply, hooked up a utility 15" LCD I keep around for testing,Microsoft Office 2007, and then pressed the power button.


Success,Buy Windows 7 Home Premium! I know "reboot and select proper boot device" doesn't look like much, but it means everything is working. We've just built a minimal Laptop that boots up. It really is a small step that we'll develop on tomorrow.

Getting this technique from a pile of parts to bootable state took about two hours. Like I promised -- easy! Writing it up is taking almost as long as actually doing it. This was a slow develop for me simply because I was extra cautious with Scott's areas, and I was stopping to consider frequent pictures. With some practice, it can be possible to build a Laptop much more quickly-- even in under ten minutes.