A Filmmaker’s View of the Runway
WHAT Miuccia Prada said she saw on the runway of her spring Miu Miu collection was a pervasive cultural obsession with becoming famous, to which she made pointed reference by playing audio snippets from “American Idol” and “Dancing With the Stars.”
What the film director Zoe Cassavetes saw was quite different: something Marlene Dietrich might wear to sing in a cabaret. “I saw a sort of 1930s meets Indochine feeling,” she said in an e-mail message this week.
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It is remarkable just how open to interpretation a fashion collection can be when seen from a different lens, as Ms. Cassavetes demonstrates in a short video she made for Ms. Prada, which will have its debut at miumiu.com today.
Fashion films are the latest things designers are using to build brand awareness and draw eyeballs to their Web sites, but they also illustrate a designer’s work in ways that are sometimes unexpected and fresh. Take the video that Nicola Formichetti, the new creative director of Thierry Mugler, put up at mugler.com last week after the designer’s Paris men’s show. Can’t say it really shows the clothes, but the Lady Gaga soundtrack suggested the mood was stunningly creepy.
The Miu Miu video is the first in a planned series of films, all by female directors interpreting Ms. Prada’s collections, that will appear throughout the year. Ms. Cassavetes called hers “The Powder Room,” as it is set in the ladies’ room at the Claridge’s hotel in London and focuses on the grooming habits of women (wearing Miu Miu) in these particular surroundings. Perhaps contrary to Ms. Prada’s original intention, the clothes do seem less suitable for an extrovert when seen in such an intimate setting.
Ms. Johnson, who died in January 2010, started the Fashion Fair in 1958, with her husband and co-founder of Ebony magazine, John H. Johnson, as a touring runway show of high-end fashion. The events raised more than $55 million for charities and exposed international designers, many for the first time, to a largely African-American audience.
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While the company is beginning to explore the possibility of bringing back its touring runway, the initial events are planned as tributes to Ms. Johnson and will include a wide range of examples from her collection of Bill Blass, Nina Ricci, Missoni, Lanvin and other designer dresses, as well as promotions for the Fashion Fair line of cosmetics that is also sold at Macy’s.