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Old 03-31-2011, 02:53 AM   #1
huingfesb
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Default 寻访香港裁缝记

寻访香港裁缝记
香港人口700多万,裁缝店数量初略估计500多家,Timberland Boots On Sale,以城市人口匹配裁缝店的数量,香港的裁缝业发达程度应该是居全球之冠,Womens Timberland Waterproof Boots

香港是自由贸易之都,全球客户往来香港经商频繁,商务客户对正装的需求,加上香港裁缝工艺精湛、质优价廉, 也促进香港裁缝业的发达和繁荣,老布什和布莱尔等政要、可口可乐总裁等商界巨子、尼古拉斯.凯奇等国际巨星 也无不被香港裁缝无与伦比的手工工艺所折服,成为香港裁缝的常客;也使得香港的裁缝手工工艺当之无愧在全球 占有崇高地位。

香港的裁缝发展史,Supra Trainers,和洋人长期在香港居住、生活息息相关,因为西装、衬衫这些本来就是洋人发明的,洋人在香港的时间呆长了, 也使得为洋人定做衣服的产业开始发达,所以今天香港的裁缝店,也一直都称为洋服店;

甲午战争之后,洋人入侵中国,上海成为洋人(当时叫“红毛子”)最集中的地方,大上海的裁缝从业者,开始有 了帮派的叫法,加工制作传统中式服装的称之为“本帮裁缝”;为洋人(红毛子)做西装的称之为“红帮裁缝”, 这些"红帮裁缝"主要来自宁波的鄞县和奉化一带,因工艺高超而闻名海内外。"红帮裁缝"历经一个多世纪,已 积定为一支庞大的群体,并扩散在全国各地,并在香港、台湾、澳门以及日本、东南亚各国等地区生 根开花。

红帮裁缝在二十世纪初,逃避战乱从上海迁居香港,如ascot chang(诗阁)的张子斌先生、willediamyu(惠利)的老余先生等都是从上海过到香港的,并迅 速成为香港裁缝的主力军,至今香港洋服店,Christian Louboutin Sale,还有很多是打着上海洋服的头衔;

香港的裁缝业,从上海的红帮裁缝入港开始,奠定了香港的裁缝业界地位;随着香港的经济发展,香港的广东籍人 居住者增多,广东人也加入到裁缝大军,发展到今天,香港的裁缝基本可以分成上海派裁缝、和粤派裁缝;粤派裁 缝的生意如今比上海派裁缝做得大,因为粤派裁缝挣到钱之后就买房,赶上自香港上世纪六七十年代开始的房地产 繁荣;而上海派裁缝因为经历过战乱所以一般不敢投资不动产,投资船业和贸易业等;所以今天的香港裁缝业占主 流的还是粤派裁缝;

经常去香港,也都会去拜会下香港裁缝的大师,交流下定制的心得(在香港不叫定制,叫度身定做),一边领略下 裁缝文化的熏陶,一边探访下香港裁缝大师们的工艺珍品。


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