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08-14-2011 09:02 PM

Narciso Rodriguez
 
Jil Sander came up with an amazing assortment of fabrics that combine lightness with structure, making for a rounded, almost sculptural silhouette.
There were supple wovens that looked and felt like knits, and a big message was padding. She who likes  christian louboutinachieved it by quilting all sorts of pieces.
There were tight cotton fencer's turtlenecks and long, graphic dresses as well as puffy belted coats - luxed-up, scaled-down versions of those Michelin Man down coats American women have loved for years.
Of course, not everything was padded. Sander cut coats and jackets and christian louboutin shoes and skirts from glazed alpaca as well as tony cashmeres and a new airy shetland.
Throughout, the overt draping of last season was refined into more subtle twists and turns.
FENDI
Fur is hot, and Fendi's just might be the hottest anywhere.
Karl Lagerfeld scaled down his fit, banishing Amazonian proportions.
And he made savvy use of all the technology the Fendi factories have to offer, printing, shearing, bejewelling and otherwise detailing the furs, usually with clever discretion.
But Lagerfeld didn't stop with the coats. He also used fur as a sportswear fabric more successfully than ever before, careful to keep the bulk factor to a minimum.
Best here were some lean skirts and an amusing group of fur tunics over jeans.
MISSONI
Angela Missoni is working toward developing Missoni into a complete sportswear collection, but those famous signature knits still form the heart of the line.
What Angela has done is to make them ######ier and more youthful. For fall, that meant plenty of lean shapes and even touches of flash, such as beading or sequins that spelled out the house's name but didn't scream.
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
One key theme in Narciso Rodriguez' collection was a lean T-shirt  and louboutin shoes with sparkly sequined sleeves worn under everything from jumpers to cashmere handknits to tight shirred evening dresses.
There were slouchy pants and long goth-hippie skirts as well as fabulous coats and jackets in leather, fur and tweed.
Perhaps most disarming of all - some would say clunky - were the strapless dresses in wool or cashmere layered over meaty sweaters.


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